TRICKLIDZ

2012-01-22T19:50:00.001-05:00

2012-01-18T15:15:00.008-05:00

I think I may be wired up wrong, but let me explain.
Today I find myself at Sears looking at the latest Dremel tool attachments during my free time because, I find it necessary to get every bit of rust off the clutch springs in my Ducati, hence the quest for the best tools for the job. And if I find any bolt to be slightly corroded I'm off to the hardware store to get a stainless replacement that I clamp into the vise and drill out for safety wire.
I'm just not right!
I sometimes justify this abnormal behavior with the belief that while I have the parts in my hands while cleaning them, I'll run every coil of the clutch springs through my fingers, inspecting for cracks and wear. While I'm cleaning every link of the drive chain, for instance, I'm also taking a good look at it's wear. Detailing your motorcycle might turn up a missing fairing screw or a loose mirror attachment, (noticed how I brought YOU into the picture- gotta feel I'm not alone in my obsession!) Okay, but taking the time and effort to coat each bolt head with clear lacquer before reinstalling. Really? Yeah, I may have a problem....
I wonder if there is support group for someone like me?
Me: "Hello, my name is Steve and I have a detail problem".
Group:"Hello Steve".

LEFT: Dremel's awesome 120 grit, quick-release buffing wheel attachment.

Contour camera using Go-Pro mounts

2012-01-16T20:26:00.015-05:00

The Contour camera uses mounts that slide onto the side in the two slots, and while these work fine they don't have the adjustability of the GoPro mounts which work on pivoting arms.
After many hours searching the Internet for suitable mounts I decided to dig out the old stuff that I had for my old GoPro camera I threw away (it was a PITA to use and had taken enough abuse before finally quitting)
Below: A few GoPro pieces and the Contour.
Before I began I purchased Contour's universal mount. This mount slides on the rails and makes use of a one quarter by 20 threaded insert on the bottom. ABOVE- you'll see the mount on the camera along with the few GoPro attachments I'll make to fit. I had to purchase the stainless steel bolt, two white nylon spacers (1/8" thick with a 1/4" ID) and the small black rubber washer. The black piece just to the left of the white spacers is the most important piece of this modification- this is the piece that normally attaches the GoPro case to the arms or bases.
BELOW- are the instructions to make this piece fit the threaded insert in the bottom of the camera.

Above is the arm in the vise so that I can remove the raise insert that normally holds the acorn nut for the through bolt that tightens the arms. Above right- is the arm in the vise being drilled out with a 1/4 inch bit.
The finished piece. (LEFT) The bottom has been ground flat, it's been drilled out and the white spacers are inserted, it's now a solid piece that will be attached to the threaded 1/4" X 20 hole in the bottom of the Universal mount. This allows the use of all the GoPro attachments.
Bottom: Here's the modified GoPro piece mounted to the camera. Later I decided to replace the allen head bolt with a button head allowing more clearance.

Left: the piece before the raised section (right side) was ground off- the spacers inserted along with the rubber washer that goes between the camera and arm.

The 1/4" X 20 bolt that goes through the bracket into the Universal mount has to be .947" from the bottom of the head to the end of the threads. The only stainless button head bolt I could find was a 1" which is .983" from the bottom, so I cut .036" off the threads. (See the picture right above for the specs)
Below left: The GoPro uses mounts that use stick-on curved or flat bases. The arms then slide and lock into these. Below left: a curved base on the right side of the front fairing.
Using a combination of short and/or longer arms the camera can be set in unlimited positions. Rotated, tilted, angled, forward or backward and locked tight with thumb screws.

I stuck the base on the top of the fairing close to fairing support, figuring this is the sturdiest place on the fairing. I can buy more bases and stick them anywhere on the bodywork or my helmet. I can't attest to the performance or video quality of the camera mounted here because I won't be able to test it until I get back on the track in the Spring, but it's as sturdy as the GoPro was when mounted on the fairing and it's quality was fine.

This modification also allows the use of GoPro's suction cup windshield/tank mount which is actually a quality Panavise unit. I've checked out Contour's suction mount and it didn't look as nice as this one.

So, with a minor modification of a small part, all of GoPro's excellent mounts can be used with the Contour.

I also decided to shorten the vertical mounting arm I made to attach the Contour to the right side of the subframe. Note: click on my other blog listed on the right of this page for info on that mount.

While I was at it I also added another rivet to the baseplate from the GoPro that I had mounted to a aluminum plate that mounts under the muffler, facing rearward.
The rivet heads need to be ground down slightly so that the arms slide in. The bottom of the aluminum plate needed a little "Dremel machining".

The camera mounted up under the exhaust...I'll be adding safety wire lanyards before taking it out on the track. BTW: the lanyards that come with the cameras don't seem to be very sturdy and I'll be making better ones.
Right: another useful purpose of the camera mount in the rear- makes a great attachment point for checking rear suspension sag!!

I even found a used padded vinyl bag I had laying around that the camera and all the mounts fit in nicely. A little double faced tape and the label from one of the Contour boxes stuck to the top of the bag. NICE!

Oh yeah......sometimes I'm kidded about be somewhat "anal retentive" (actually, not somewhat...)......anyway, below I've added a picture of my toolbox.

You think?

Little more carbon.....

2012-01-13T18:24:00.004-05:00

Here's the quickly made aluminum plate that I used last year to mount the Techtronics Quickshifter brain to the frame on the right side of the bike.

I had a little 2mm carbon fiber sheet left from my 748 dash so I decided to make a better item.

I had to change the design slightly (it still works fine) because I had very little sheet left.

Even though the plate is thicker and stronger than the aluminum, which was flexible, it weighs the same 15 grams.

Any excuse to use CarbonFiber and I'm all over it!!

Held on there with some Heavyduty Velcro.

Custom screen for under the tail...

2012-01-13T18:16:00.005-05:00

Never liked the way I could see the business under the tail from the rear....(yeah, I know, I've got to much time on my hands....)

Anyway, came up with this cheap screen setup that I bent, sprayed flat black and mounted to the tail support. The support is a light piece of aluminum strip that Velcros to the underside of the tail, because I don't like to have holes in the tailpiece.

Looking from the front. I'll post a pic with the tailsection installed later....

Cleaning up some safety wiring.....

2012-01-03T12:59:00.006-05:00

Before: clips and safety wiring on the caliper mounting bolts.
I didn't like the way it looked.
Assorted clips from Kurvey Girl.

After: Polished bolts, more holes, new clips, tight wire. I tried .025" wire then decided to go with .32" wire and cover it with clear plastic hose.

Random safety wire drilling stuff....

2011-12-23T20:10:00.005-05:00

I decided to clean up and drill a few more holes for the safety wire clips in the front caliper mounting bolts. The bolt laying on the vise to the right is the slightly corroded bolt and the left one has been polished.
This cut off wheel for the Dremel tool shows the quick release style hole for the new style arbor. I found this setup makes changing out the wheels a heck of a lot quicker.
Once I polished the heads of the bolts I hit them with a little clear laquer in an effort to keep them from corroding again.
If you're going to attempt bolt drilling for safety wire, stock up on 1/16" hardened drill bits.
I drilled the heads out on every flat of the socket head making it easier to position the clips where they would line up properly. That neat Park Tool makes it easy to hold different diameter bolts in the vise. Handy.
A small adjustable angled vise makes it easy to hold bolts firmly on the drill press. Don't forget the oil for cooling the drill bit.
Gotta have a drill press.
The Dremel (Sears actually) tool with the polishing quick-release wheel.

Homemade parts washer

2011-12-16T11:31:00.004-05:00

I must admit that I'm a bit of a "dumpster diver"- have been from way-back, runs in the family! Plus, I'm cheap (to a degree).....so having no shame about routing around through the thrash helps. I must also say that I tend to use everything I bring home, it may be years before I need it but I always seem to make use of the item or piece of "scrap".
Take the nice piece of perforated stainless steel sheets that were used in my "free" parts washer. After a couple of cuts, folds, and rivets attaching it to a discarded bin zip-tied to procured milk crates (yeah, I know about the legal warnings on the things....but what can I say, I guess I live dangerously!) I had a nice unit.

Using a combination of parts washing fluid (pressurized bottle), and spray cans of Brakleen (high solvent and low solvent) I can clean my parts and the excess fluid drains into the bin where most of it evaporates. I've got a brush and blow gun there also.
I designed it to be at working level right outside the workspace, behind the doors separating the heated shop from the stairs and bulkhead. Notice the white box to the lower right- this is the fan setup that I use when I paint in the room, I've just turned the opening 90 degrees (from the covered opening to the shop-red door) to suck out the fumes when I turn on the fan--it works great--no more filling the house with strong brake cleaner fumes. When I'm done washing parts I just shut the door, let the fan run for awhile to evacuate the remaining nastiness and that's it.
It's out of the way, accessible, easy to use.......and, best of all FREE!!

2011-11-26T20:35:00.001-05:00

A great day to bring her down.....

Ready for the beast....

2011-11-24T19:52:00.001-05:00

The basement stand is ready for this winter's work on the 999R.
Just need a couple bodies to get it down the ramp. Stay tuned.......

Tribute to Marco Simoncelli #58

2011-11-07T18:47:00.005-05:00

That's Kevin Schwantz holding his bike with all the MotoGp bikes in the background. He lead the parade lap in memory of Marco Simoncelli.

Did Marco Simoncelli have on a chest protector?

2011-10-29T17:20:00.008-04:00

I'm sure if you are here than you know about the tragic crash and resulting death of Marco Simoncelli during the last round of the MotoGp race. I have no desire to start a controversy, but I've been wondering if he was wearing a chest protector during the race.

I've watched most of the races, practices and qualifying on MotoGp.com and I've never seen him put one on. I know that Nicky Hayden, Colin Edwards, and others use them. Nicky and Colin use the same protector as I do during my track days/Impact Amour brand.

http://www.impactarmor.com/ NOTE: I've found the statements on the site about Carlos Checa and Troy Bayliss interesting.

During the last week I've read and seen many reports about the crash and understand that his death was a result of chest trauma. I can't help but wonder if a properly worn chest protector would have helped. I'm also curious as to why these are not mandated in such a high level of competition as MotoGP, even some track days require their use.

If anyone has anything to add or can confirm that he was or was not wearing a chest protector please add a comment below.

Thanks

R.I.P. Simo

LAMINATED MAPS

2011-10-19T20:47:00.004-04:00

I love to tour unknown locations with Mary and the BMW---BUT, I have to admit, I suck at directions- just ask anyone who's followed me during a ride. I can't tell my North from South, I don't remember where I've been in the past, can't remember any points of interest (I just claim that I never saw them when Mary screams at me "Steve, remember this place from last year?") "Yes dear" nodding--all the while I have no clue if we were there or not. I claim that I'm busy doing my job keeping a "spirited" pace and watching for deer and LEO's!!
YES, I have a GPS that works great, put I still have trouble. On top of this Mary is a "map person" before we leave she has to confirm that we have all the proper paper maps in the tankbag. Thing is, paper maps are difficult to use while riding- if she uses them in the back while enroute and relays the directions through our intercom it's fine but more often then not they are hard to read while riding (or stopped if your eyesight sucks like ours) and they either fall out of her jacket when we stop or when we're done they are ripped to shreds from constant folding/unfolding.
So on the last tour of CT. Mary got tired of me stopping to check the GPS, etc and at a lunch stop annouced that she was buying a map at the gas staion. What she returned with was the largest map of one state that I have ever seen!! We laid that sucker out on the grass and it was bigger than some blankets. She had bought ($5.99) a Rand MacNally Easy to Read map--and it was surely easy to read, but folding and storing it was another thing!!
So after a couple of days of thoughts of "There's gotta be a better way to use a paper map while motorcycling." I came up with the following project.
Let me know what you think.

Some of the equipment used for the project.

Here's all the sections of NY State.

This shows the marks I've added with a Sharpie making it easier to arrange the sections. When correctly positioned it will make an "X".

2011-10-19T20:46:00.002-04:00

I used a Brother P-Touch label maker to label each map section.
Here's 6 states. Some are two sided.

2011-10-19T20:45:00.002-04:00

The size of the printing on the "Easy to Read" maps means less of the state fits on the 9x11" laminate pouch, resulting in many sections making up each state and some are two sided. But I feel the fact that these maps are so much easier to read by us old-timers while on the road.

NY State.

The laminator does a great job of sealing the maps, but your have to really plan the sections and leave at least 1/8' around the edges so they seal.

2011-10-19T20:43:00.004-04:00

I also print maps and directions of specific rides from Google Maps, add notes right on the map (you can also add arrows, text, etc from the site) before printing.

Here's a route from Waitsfield VT. to Tracy Rd. in NY. The notes on the left help with specfic roads that are too small to print when Zoomed Out to cover a larger area. As I noted eariler, you can also write right on the laminated sheet with a Sharpie and clean it later with alcohol.

It gets added to the folder.

The ole' laminator. I used the largest pouches that fit the machine. These sections only fit my large tankbag's map case, so that's what we'll be using on tours where we need a map. The sections also fit in the compartment under the tankbags cover for storage.
Markings showing the correct arrangements. We'll probably only need to put the maps together at night while discussing the route and planning another.
Some of the equipment for the project. I think the Laminator going to come in handy around the house. It was under $30 new from Amazon.

You'll need some room to lay the puppies out!!

2011-07-14T17:39:00.001-04:00

Tire Balancing 101

2011-07-11T14:45:00.003-04:00

Sorry the tire balancing posts are in the wrong order---but this blog has been giving me trouble lately.
Please start with the posts below titled "Tire Balancing 101" then finish with "Steps to Balance" Thanks,
Steve

2011-06-21T21:31:00.001-04:00

Steps to Balance.

2011-05-26T11:58:00.011-04:00

Here's the naked wheel on the balancer to find the true heaviest spot.

The two red dots on the tire represents the lightest point- mount the tire with these at the "true" heaviest point on the rim (or the valve stem if you didn't check the rim first).

The first thing to do is set the wheel (from now on "wheel" will refer to the rim/tire) on the balancer, making sure the rod or axle is level, and give it a good spin. Position yourself so that your can "eyeball" the top of the tire as it spins and use a reference point in the distance to check for any up and down movement, also check for any side "runout". If the wheel has a wobble it could be a slightly bent rim or tire that is not seated properly on the rim. If everything is true, continue on.
Slow the spinning tire until it settles to a stop. Note: As you become better at the process you'll get a feel for how much weight to start with to get close. The heaviest spot is now at the bottom (6 o'clock). Add a strip of weights (as shown below) opposite this spot (12 o'clock), then move it to the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock (below) position and let it go. If it begins to drop to the bottom, cut a little bit of the strip off, you'll get the hang of how much to remove by the speed that it drops. Keep playing with the length of the strip until it stays there or moves very little. I like to position the wheel at different spots and check for movement. When your sure that the weight added compensates for the heavy point on the wheel, give it a few small spins and make sure that it stops at random spots. If it stops and then changes direction or speeds up it's still off a little and you'll have to make adjustments.

Once you're positive that you have a nice balanced wheel, carefully remove the weight strip, clean the rim and apply it to the rim. If it's a wide rear wheel try to get it directly in the middle of the rim or if it's a narrow rim and you have a lot of weight, divide the strip in half and put an equal amount on both sides.

Before removing the wheel from the balancer double check your work.

There it is.....a pretty straight forward technique for checking your wheels for trueness and getting a perfect balance, just like the professionals.

Tire Balancing 101

2011-05-19T13:16:00.012-04:00

Here's where I got the static tire balancer I've been using for years. Marc makes excellent stuff for mostly BMW's, and this balancer is very well made and reliable.

Here's some of the tools and attachments I use for balancing different wheels. The top rod and cones are for the single sided swingarms for Ducatis. The middle is a universal style I had machined that fits many different sized wheel bearings. The lower one and the round aluminum adapter (below to the right of it) is a Marc Parnes item and is for single sided BMW wheels.

Note: This balancer is designed to use the stock axles also.

Then you'll need stick on wheel weights (shown are car type), a small level (I'll explain that later), cutting pliers and brake cleaner for removing the old weights.

Here's the unit with the rod and cones I used to balance the Ducati wheels and tires. Note the vertical adjustment of the left bearing support, it's used to compensate for axles that are large on one end (usually front). Also notice that the right bearing support is adjustable for width of the wheel/tire combo, this is handy when setting the positions of the bearings on the axles so there is no interferance when spinning the wheel. Marc also sells a rod setup that attaches to his balancer that is used to check runout of the wheel.

Rain tires mounted and ready for balancing.

Tip 1. To balance a tire using the minimum amout of weight first check the balance of just the rim. Tires are checked for balance at the factory and marked for the lightest spot, this spot should be positioned opposite the heaviest point of the rim (which many, mistakenly, think is the valve stem). Note the yellow dot on the rim above, this is the "true" heaviest point of the rim.

Now notice the yellow dot on the rear wheel in relationship to the valve stem (preceived heaviest spot). As seen, there can be quite a difference between these two, in this case almost 180 degrees. The yellow dot is the point I use as the heaviest to balance the wheel/tire. You'll use less weight with this method, although I realize it takes a little more time, but seeing as I've mounted and balanced all my own tires for years, I feel it's worth it. Trust me, most shops will never make the effort to do this and you'll end up with a 4 inch strip of weights on the wheels, AND, they would probably not even bother to seperate them for both sides of the rim. That's tip 2. If you need quite a bit of weight it should be divided in two strips and applied to both sides of the rim.

Full Floating Buttons

2011-05-19T12:46:00.003-04:00

The finished product. Notice also how I've cleaned the rotors with Brakleen and a grey Scotchbrite pad. I also deglazed the pads using 180 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of tempered glass.

The old "semi-floating" buttons need to be ground off from the backside.

After the new buttons are installed, I add a litle epoxy to the clip on the back just to be safe.

MIT eSuperbike

2011-05-13T21:18:00.003-04:00

The bike uses two electric motors on both sides, mounted low on aluminum plates. I believe they said it's a 100 volt system. The battery packs are mounted around the engine area. It uses the same batteries as a laptop computer. It can be charged in a couple of hrs. but for best range and power it needs an overnight charge. They will limit the speed to around 75 mph for the IOM race. The race is one lap and last year many entries didn't finish.
The bike was at NHMS for a Boston Moto trackday on a Monday and was scheduled to be shipped to the Isle Of Man on that Wednesday for the race.

Once the bodywork is mounted it should look pretty much like a BMW S1000RR trackbike.

MIT e Superbike

2011-05-13T21:16:00.002-04:00

The guys behind this effort gave us a brief talk at lunch about the specs and work involved with the bike. The bike has been run on the dyno but this was the first time it was ridden on the track.
BMW donated a new S1000RR superbike for the MIT eSuperbike. The finished bike weighs about 60 pounds more than the stock bike.
The dash. The bike can be started remotely from a laptop.
This battery disconnect is required for the IOM race. It's mounted in the tailsection.
All this stuff is mounted in place of the tank. The bodywork was yet to be finished.

Techtronics Quickshifter for the 999

2011-04-05T21:36:00.006-04:00

I mounted the shift lights on an aluminum bracket I made and riveted it to the bottom of the fairing stay. The lights are nice and high and should be in my line of sight while tucked in down the straightaways. Fuzzy picture of the bracket. Another reason I collect any scrap aluminum I see around...this piece was perfect for fabbing the support for the control unit. The unit is velcroed to the bracket. Mounted right side at the air runner. Top front of the bike is complete. I'll be swapping out the 19X18 Brembo clutch master for a new 16X18mm and new slave cylinder after I realized how stiff the clutch pull was!! Oh well, live and learn...now I'll have a backup. I got a great deal on a used Techtronics Quickshifter system that was designed for the 999. The system includes a race style (GP shift) straight shift lever with a built in pressure sensor, control unit with digital readout to adjust all the paremeters, three row LED shift light and OFF switch.

Back side of lever with pressure sensor.

Very nice looking piece.

2011-04-05T21:32:00.003-04:00

While I'm on the subject of wiring.....this is the tape that I used to wrap all the wiring work I've done on the R over the lst few years.

It prevents this...(see below)!!

More random info.....

2011-04-05T21:23:00.002-04:00

Along with the super-light Shorai battery, I made some heavier gauge cables.

The standard cables were about 6.5mm in diameter, whereas the new ones are 9.5mm which means less amperage loss on start up. It's an excellent mod that I've done to all my Ducatis. Above left- note the small size of the battery- it comes with the high density foam to fill the battery box.

A little tip: those little nuts behind the terminals are always a pain keeping them in place when trying to get the screws started!!! I folded a small piece of heat shrink tubing and slid it behind the nut to keep it from floating while I start the screw.

Slipper Clutch.....

2011-04-05T18:13:00.003-04:00

Hey what's a slipper clutch and how does it work? A question I asked myself may times as I read about track day riders extolling the joys of the "slipper"... Well, I decided to bite the bullet and spring for one during this winter's tear down. After a lot of research and call's to different suppliers, I decided on the Motowheels "drop in" slipper clutch. There's the beauty above in all it's anodized redness!! OK then, let's see the inner workings of the thing...

2011-04-05T18:11:00.001-04:00

Above and below is a closeup shot of a ball bearing sitting in grease on the "ramp" of the clutch hub. The ramps in this particular slipper are 45 degrees which I'm told supply a quicker release of the plates for track use. This assembly is what basically seperates a "slipper" clutch from a standard unit.

2011-04-05T17:55:00.004-04:00

This inner part of the clutch hub on the left with the ramps and balls. The part on the right (also with ramps) is shown upside down and fits over the left part, forming the clutch hub. This assembly takes the place of the stock hub. Note the spider spring under the nut, this tensions the inner hub as it pulls away from the outer hub when back torque from the rear wheel is applied. Notice also that I reused my original steel basket which was only slightly worn. That's the reason this is a "drop in" unit, as you're required to reuse the basket and springs, although it comes with spring retainers, bolts, and a new clutch pack with aluminum friction plates. Motowheels will also give you a deal on a basket when buying their slipper.

Above- my homemade tool holding the hub and basket from turing as I torque the nut to the specified reading.

Left- the finished product asssembled with the stock springs and basket.

Rotors

2011-04-05T13:01:00.003-04:00

Brake rotor 2003 999R on left. Right-rotor 999S.
Note the relieved edge on the R rotor. I have no idea why it's there. They weight the same.

2011-04-05T12:48:00.002-04:00

I even took the time and effort to modify a kill switch from another model Ducati that I bought used. After a lot of careful work with a Dremel tool I managed to change it so that the wiring now exits the right of the switch.
This was done because I have it mounted on the left handlebar because the right doesn't have room after installing the Brembo master cylinder.
Here it is next to the stock one. Notice the difference in size and also the routing of the wire harness.

If you look carefully on the far left you'll see the harness of the switch. Also note the "choke" cable I have attached to the bar- I could have removed this completely, but decided to leave it in place (albeit, without the housing) for cold starts. The small toggle switch is for the Techtronics quickshifter system.

Continued....

2011-04-05T12:37:00.001-04:00

Top- Lightweight battery and new cables I made (red) Bottom- Bling from KurveyGirl

Stock banjo bolt left, Ti beauty right, ready for safety wire.

Been a busy, and costly winter.

more pictures

2011-04-05T12:26:00.003-04:00

Above left-I made this piece of hardwood to hold the rockers out of the way. Right-A nice bright light and forceps to hold the valves from dropping.

Left-Only loosen this nut holding the adjustable roller a much as necassary when making adjustments because there's a washer behind it that will move out of place and then the belt alignment will be off. Right-I mark the direction of the belt when reusing them.

RANDOM PICTURES

2011-04-05T12:16:00.003-04:00

Front wheel removed, calipers swung out for valve check. Above brake pad before dressing.

Above left clean pad, right: as it came out with use. Right: Horizontal cyl. set to TDC for valve and timing belt check. Note marks on pulleys and belts, so that it gets reassembled in the same place.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

2011-04-05T11:30:00.012-04:00

Thought this might be interesting for some who are thinking about making the effort to shave some weight from their Ducati.

Note: The aftermarket battery listed above is a Shorai AFT- it is by far the best weight savings compared to the OEM part, just holding the case of this battery makes one believe it is empty. The banjo bolts are for the front Brembo radial master cylinders that replace the stock units. I got drilled Ti bolts from KurveyGirl- it was more for the bling than anything else and the reason I didn't list a weight is because it didn't register on my digital mailing scale. The rotor buttons are full floating Speilger (sp) from Motowheels. The belt cover is just for the vertical cylinder, it's all that was listed for my bike from a German company listed on Ebay--but the quality is excellent and the price was right.
Note also that the DP stay weighs a little more than the Vortex but I feel that the difference is worth it because the DP is more robust and works better at supporting everything up front, plus it doesn't let the throttle cables bind in tight turns like the Vortex does. It's more money (I've found a couple used so far) but worth it.
I didn't get to weigh the Motowheels drop in slipper clutch hub but it's a bit lighter. The difference between the baskets- stock steel, Ducati Corse- aluminum is shown above. The big plus is the reduced inertia of the rotating parts right off the transmission.
All these parts are cheap, but if you're going to take the time and effort to make upgrades, might as well make it lighter!! My theory, anyway.

2011-03-25T18:54:00.003-04:00

I just realized that I should have labelled all my posts so that it would be easier to find a specific subject when searching!! I took the time to edit every post to add a Label on the bottom. By clicking on the label you should be able to bring up a list of ever post that has that label attached to it. And you can type in a label name in the search bar at the top of this blog to find posts related to that label. Some of the labels I used are- TESTASTRETTA, 999, GEOMETRY, VALVE CHECK, VALVE CLEARANCE, 748, CAM TIMING, UPGRADES, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES, FOR SALE, etc. So if you'd like to find info on Cam timing for a 999- search Testastretta, Cam Timing. Let me know how it works out and any suggestions for making it easier to use. I'm still learning this blog stuff!!! Steve

CAM TIMING

2011-03-02T00:13:00.004-05:00

I thought I'd share this info about cam timing that was in Cycle World magazine, it's from the "guru", Kevin Cameron. Notice that the most important valve timing event is the intake closing point. Also the really small "valve overlap" of only 11 degrees for the new Diavel (and the Multistrada, I believe) for low end grunt.

I hope you find it informative.

Completed Brake and Clutch Master setup

2011-02-21T19:51:00.003-05:00

I'm happy with the outcome. I bent up a recycled aluminum strap, made an aluminum spacer, and bought a longer stainless 6mm bolt for the handlebar clamp. Using the 30cc reservoir that I got with the clutch master I mounted up the reservoir.

Brembo Radial Master Cylinders Upgrade.

2011-02-20T23:27:00.003-05:00

I bought used Brake and Clutch radial masters from to members of DucatiMS- They came with a couple of Brembo plastic reservoirs. I installed the clutch side as I received it, but I think I'll upgrade the bracket. The clutch side is supported by a homemade stainless wire and what looks like a Titanium bolt.

2011-02-20T23:20:00.003-05:00

I stole the hardware off of my ST2 to mount the brake reservoir. I used a 45cc OEM size. I have some clear hose and Titanium banjo bolts ordered to finish the job. This is a Medium (30cc) reservoir mounted with some stainless rod (I bought it used). I have a small 15cc resi ordered and I think I make a stronger bracket. I bent the bracket so that it just clears the top of the dash unit. I used the Woodcraft clip on handlebar bolt with a spacer under it.

Rotor differences

2011-02-20T23:12:00.003-05:00

The rotor on the left is the OEM from my 2003 999R- the one on the right is from a 749 (I think an 06- I bought it used)- notice the difference in the outside of the edge- the R is relieved. BTW- they both weigh the same.

Cam timing- Powerpoint presentation

2011-01-31T15:41:00.003-05:00

Here's a Power Point that I did on cam timing. The pictures load slow and it's kind of difficult to follow, but you get the idea.
http://www.theride.tv/ducati/CHECKING%20CAM%20TIMING%20ON%204%20VALVE%20DUCATI_files/frame.htm

I had lost this for awhile (got stuck in Cyberspace, I guess)--but it's back and I'm glad because many people have been looking for this kind of info.

I'll get it on my Knols too.

DECK AND PATIO

2010-12-07T18:39:00.003-05:00

After a lot of hard work and fantastic help from family and friends, the deck and patio are finally finished!!

Let us know what you think...leave a comment.

Steve, Mary, Cory, Brian.....others.

2010-12-07T18:37:00.000-05:00

2010-12-07T18:28:00.000-05:00

Custom Painted Helmets

2010-11-30T21:07:00.005-05:00

Thought I'd throw in some pics I dug up of some helmets I've painted over the years.....enjoy. Click the pics for larger views. A bicycle frame.

Scorpion EXO700 comparo

2010-11-04T19:16:00.002-04:00

Got a new helmet in today from Sportbike Track Gear, the Scorpion EX 700 in size MED.
Price was- $85.95
It weighs 3lbs 9.8oz.

It came with a nice helmet bag. I also bought a dark smoked shield and chin skirt.

My Shoei RF100 weighs 3lbs 5.4 oz.

My old custom painted Arai RX7RR weighs 3 lbs. 8.6 oz.

So the Scorpion is the heaviest of the three, but not by much.

Here's the specs:

1. Shoei RF1000 Date of Man-01/06 Weight- 3lb. 5.4 oz.

2. Arai RX7RR Date of Man- 05/04 Weight- 3lb. 8.6 oz.

3. Scorpion EXO700 DOM------06/06 Weight-3lb. 9.8 oz.

I don't think I'll feel the weight while using it for track use and it feels comfortable on my head. Fits snugger than the RF1000 that was getting loose.

I like the graphics too.

So, overall, I'm happy--for the $86 price tag.

I'll report the "real world" results when I get a chance to use it.

2010-11-04T18:55:00.002-04:00

Front view. Understated graphics with a matte finish. Should go nicely with my track leathers or street bike.

Rear view.

Snell 2005.

The liner has a checkered flag print and they sell other designs. The liner is completely removable and wash safe. It fits well, same as the other helmets, in a size Med. I can also easily fit my glasses!

Just as a comparison of the weight. This small bottle of adhesive weighs 1.2oz.

Womens Riding Pants Perforated- size 13-ITEM 2

2010-10-19T12:59:00.007-04:00

I forgot we had these pants....they complete the perforated womens outfit that Mary wore on our trip to Cali in 04. These zip to either Vanson womens jacket I have listed.
One rear belt loop is pulled from pant.
No scraps or marks...
Completly lined- with perf. nylon--not cold weather lining.

These Vanson pants were worn with the perf jacket (#7 listed on another page) for a trip in California only. In excellent condition! Please see the detail of the zipper that connects these pants to both women's jackets listed. Since the jacket and pants zipped together they can be used for trackdays. Just zip these pants to jackets #6 and/or #7 and you'll have a heavy weight, protective leather outfit. Or, throw a back protector in the jacket for a great track suit, at well below the retail cost...check out Vanson's website for the prices on these things!!
These pants are size 13 and have never been altered.
They measure approx. Waist-34" Hips-36" Inseam- 32"
I can take more accurate measurements if anyone is interested.
SALE--$75 plus shipping
MAKE AN OFFER FOR ALL JACKET/PANTS COMBO--AND I CAN COMBINE SHIPPING---

TouraTech Tail Bag-ITEM 3

2010-09-16T15:32:00.004-04:00

I used this on my 06 BMW R1200RT for less than two years until the zipper ripped!! I couldn't get the zipper replaced in time for a trip, so I had a professional sail maker install this velcro strap to keep the top closed. It works well, but the top does not close well enough to be called water tight.

Here's a close up (click on the pic for a larger view) of the seperated zipper. With a new zipper installed, this bag would be as good as new. It slides right over the rear rack of the BMW and should fit many other bikes with a rear rack or can be made to fit on the rear seat.

I paid something rediculous for this new- like $175

Your price- $50 ---REDUCED---$40

Vanson Womens Cordura Jacket-ITEM 4

2010-09-16T15:24:00.005-04:00

Older jacket, but still in nice shape. All Cordura with reflective piping and Vanson logo on shoulders. Double padding in shoulders and elbows.

Front panels unzip and roll down into jacket pocket to expose perf. leather area.

Size 12. Short waist.

From non-smoker, climate controlled home.

Clean.

Rear exhaust vent.

Think I paid $150 back in the day.

Your price-$60 ---REDUCED---$50 ---REDUCED AGAIN--$40

Womens MotoLine Challenger Jacket-ITEM 5

2010-09-16T15:14:00.004-04:00

At least 10 years old, but in decent shape.

The red is slightly faded. Has back protector (thin foam) installed. No liner- I lost it.

Will fit women sized 12-14 with room for layers underneath. Plus, check out the nice Vanson electric vest I have for sale!!

Would still be using this jacket, but got a new Rev-It.

Paid about $160 new

Your price- $50
REDUCED TO--$40

VANSON SEMI-PERF JACKET Womens-small man's- ITEM 6

2010-09-16T13:10:00.009-04:00

very slightly used. Clean. Perf. front chest area, solid sleeves and back. Soft armor in elbows and shoulders. Can be zipped to leather pants (listed above).
Exhaust vents in rear.
No tears, scuffs, or smells.

Womens size 12.
New $600
Your cost- $400--REDUCED--$300---REDUCED---$200

VANSON VENTILATED JACKET WOMENS size 12- ITEM 7

2010-09-16T12:59:00.009-04:00

PERFECT FOR SUMMER RIDING OR TRACKDAYS!!!VANSON FULL PERF. LEATHER JACKET. (Note: the picture above is of the back of the semi-perf. jacket)
Adjustable waist at sides
Front is full perferated. Reflective Vanson logos on shoulders. Soft armor at shoulders and elbows.
Med. is approx Womens 12. Streamliner vest can snap in as liner for cold weather riding.
Jacket was bought in 2004 and used for an 8 day tour of California only.
Both these jackets zip to either pants listed with a hidden zippered stretch panel on the inside.
All my gear for sale is Clean, from non-smokers, and stored in climate controlled home.
This jacket was purchased from Vanson for over $600.
Your price-$400 ----REDUCED----$300---plus shipping---or can be seen and picked up in Mattapoisett or Taunton, MA.
More info or pics, contact Steve @ Tricklidz@yahoo.com
REDUCED AGAIN----$200

Post-Trackday work.

2010-08-23T15:13:00.005-04:00

Wanted to do a couple of upgrades to the 999R, so I dragged it out of the trailer and stripped it down. I've been noticing that it's been running on the hot side during summer month trackdays (about 200-205 while moving) and after talking to a friend who has a 848 trackbike we decided that the aftermarlet race bodywork has smooth sides without any exit vents for the hot air to escape!! The OEM bodywork has the wings on the sides and exhaust vents on the upper part of the sides. I decided to cut some exhaust vents in the side panels.

First I made a cardboard template of the approxiamate shape that I wanted and marked it out on masking tape applied to the area to cut. Next I cut the three "corners" with a step drill bit to get a nice radius. Then I went to work with my trusty Dremel tool and cutting disc. I painted inside the cut edges with some red touch up paint for a finished look. Lastly, I cut up some of the grill material I had from an old wastebasket (I've used this stuff for other vent grilles), hit it with some flat black spray paint and secured it using 3M adhesive tape.

I think it looks great because the black screen ties in with the black Dzus fasteners, etc. I report how well it works after my next day.

I also found a used Euro Racing quick turn throttle on one of the forums and installed that. Had to get into the airbox to install the cables: Hence, the diassembly! This throttle housing includes three different sized cams that give different degrees of total throttle twist. I have the largest (quickest) cam installed and it's about 1/4 turn now. I report back on the results here also....

Updated suspension guide

2010-07-29T21:46:00.000-04:00

Here it is-
http://knol.google.com/k/steve-methia/bmw-r1200rt-front-shock-replacement/2rk7csiieinrp/8#edit

How to swap shocks on your BMW??

2010-07-22T21:52:00.001-04:00

part 1 http://knol.google.com/k/steve-methia/bmw-r1200rt-shock-replacement-guide/2rk7csiieinrp/7 part 2 http://knol.google.com/k/steve-methia/bmw-r1200rt-front-shock-replacement/2rk7csiieinrp/8

Norton Surprise!!

2010-07-14T15:47:00.002-04:00

http://vimeo.com/11285536

MORE PAINT WORK!!!

2010-04-12T13:08:00.002-04:00

Three complete sets of Yamaha R6 "race" bodywork for team MotoAddiciton.A lot of painting and prep work. Ending up shooting over a gal of paint and clearcoat....

By sometime around 3AM!!! Sunday I was pretty much sick of looking at what I nicknamed "smurffy" blue paint!!! The finished product came out nice and I can't wait the see them mounted up with all the stickers and vinyl graphics applied.

2010-04-12T13:02:00.002-04:00

Dude, you're not allowed in here without a mask!! Glad to have help....

Ahhhhh....breathing in the fresh Isocianates!!!

Primer's done, now lets squirt some paint...

Tim prepares the custom stands....

Track bike PAINT- Round two.

2010-03-30T13:57:00.002-04:00

After a couple of "get-offs" last season.....it was time to paint some new bodywork. The pieces are Armour Bodies. I'm going with the same paint scheme that I used last year, which is the original 999R design and OEM Ducati red paint.

2010-03-30T13:49:00.002-04:00

I invested in a disposable bag liner system for my guns that speeds clean up between color changes. Works OK, but needs a little more fine tweaking!

The trick is having the pieces mounted solidly to a stand that is at the right height to get at all the spots and secure enough to work on the taping, etc, between coats.

Quite the "get-up: heh?

I've built custom stands that I can rotate as I spray because I don't have much room to work in my makeshift paint booth.

2010-03-30T13:42:00.002-04:00

I've sprayed the red base coat, let it dry and applied intercoat clear where I'll add the white plates and decals.

Here's the front number plate area taped off.

All three pieces on stands. The lower (foreground) is dull because it has no intercoat clear on it.

Two coats of finish clear.

The finished tail.

2010-03-30T13:35:00.002-04:00

Stickers, tape, number plates and finish clear.

2010-03-24T20:09:00.000-04:00

ALMOST READY FOR BATTLE

2010-02-20T22:03:00.002-05:00

All the mechanical work is complete, just waiting for the bodywork.
The more I work on this bike the more I like it.
Going with Dunlops this time in a 190 rear.

ARMOUR BODIES Bodywork

2010-02-16T20:13:00.003-05:00

Here's the bodywork temporarily fitted with the bike covered in plastic so that I can fill the blemishes and dimples and touch up with primer.
The red glow in the picture is a heat lamp that speeds the drying time of the body filler and putty.

Now, I'm ready for the final paint.

Just gotta wait for the snow to melt so that I can drag the bike up the stairs and change the mechanical shop into the paint shop!!

WORK CONTINUES....

2010-02-16T20:03:00.002-05:00

Mounted up a used Ducati Performance fairing stay that replaced the cheap Vortex stay that I broke while trying to modify it!!!

Nice used '05 boxed swingarm, RK gold chain and new 15/39 gearing.

The dash with the fairing mounted temporarily to mark and drill the mounting holes.

This stay is a lot stronger and has a better angle for the dash unit while allowing the throttle cable to run through it instead of around a bracket near the frame that made them tight when turning the bars!! You get what you pay for!

2010-02-05T13:30:00.001-05:00

2003 999R Swingarm (scratched) and fender

2010-02-04T20:19:00.002-05:00

Swingarm (scratched on one side, see pics) can be sanded and powdercoated or painted. Axle blocks, chain guard, guides, bearings included. $100

just click on any pic to make it larger.....

Nice Carbon Fiber fender/shock guard. MINT! $25----SOLD!!

Buy the swinger...I'll throw it in!! Tricklidz@yahoo.com

999-749 PARTS FOR SALE

2010-02-04T18:36:00.002-05:00

Rear brake line from a 2003 -999R- Old style swingarm- $20 Horizontal Cylinder exhaust pipe (mid-pipe) both pieces. Ducati.com lists as fits all years 749-999 stock system. May be different than the pipe that comes with the "R" kit. Although it's the same pipe that's on my 2003 999R. P# 57010741B and #57010721B. Note: 57010741B lists for $650 from Ducati!!! I DID SOME MORE CHECKING AND IT SEEMS THIS IS THE PIPE THAT HAS THE CAT IN IT......IT'S THE STANDARD PIPE (NOT KIT) THAT IS ON ALL THE 749-999----PRICE REDUCTION--- $250....$100 BOTH PIPES

I have 748-99X parts listed on older posts!!!

PLEASE REPLY TO --Tricklidz@yahoo.com

Final Geometry Numbers!!!

2010-02-03T21:38:00.001-05:00

Well, now that I've spent countless hours designing tools, making jigs, taking readings, crunching numbers and then finally making adjustments.....

I ready to share the results with anyone who, by now, isn't completely bored or confused (or both).

FRONT RIDE HEIGHT (measured from top of upper triple clamp to center of axle) = 714MM

REAR RIDE HEIGHT (measured from a rest I made directly over the axle mounted to one of the threaded studs under the muffler* this is not going to be useful to anyone else unless they use the same measuring spot) but, I can use it for accurate, repeatable measurments.
= 466MM

RAKE-23.5 degrees
FORK OFFSET- 27MM
TRAIL-99MM
SWINGARM ANGLE-10.5 degrees
SWINGARM LENGTH-500MM with axle in center position
-507MM axle back to stop. Stop can be removed for more adjustment.
WHEELBASE-1435MM (center) 1442 (back)
TIRES-PIRELLI DRAGON SUPER CORSA PRO (worn)
REAR CIRC.= 1020MM FRT. CIRC.=892MM
HEIGHT TO AXLE CENTER- R=320MM F=305MM

RANDOM NOTES:
Fork lines above triple clamp= 1
Spring rate- F= 1.05Kg R=.90Kg
Rear Ohlins Spring #01092-29/90 L374 = 170MM free length
Rear spring preload= 12MM
Front spring preload= 9.75 turns from firm

REALLY RANDOM STUFF:
One turn of ride height rod = 8MM in rear ride height or 1 degree of swingarm angle.
Example: Rod length Ride height Swingarm angle
285mm (stock) 470mm 11.1
1/2 turn shorter 466mm 10.5
1 turn shorter 462mm 10.1
Rear Free Sag= 5.5MM
Front Free Sag is now 21MM but will change when I adjust rider sag, which is suspension settings, that I'll get to before I use the bike.

Parts needed to convert to the 05 and later "boxed" swingarm:
Swingarm, lower shock/rod mount nut with extended end plug, rear brake line. The new swingarm will work with the stock (54mm) sized mid pipe, but anything larger in dia will probably not clear!

Checking the Swingarm angle.

2010-02-03T21:22:00.001-05:00

I used a digital protractor along with the laser level and a large T square. The T square lays along the swingarm from the center of the pivot to the center of the rear axle. The bike is supported by the frame so that there is no weight on the suspension. I sat the lower arm of the protractor on the top edge of the T square, then raised the other arm until it was parallel with the level laser line. The picture below shows a downward angle of 10.5 degrees on the swingarm.

Here you can barely make out the red "level" laser line running through the centerline of the swingarm pivot. I had to first find how the bike sits naturally (if the front sat higher than the back, etc), and I did this by measuring the height of both axles from the ground and adjusting accordingly.

The laser worked well on the rear...

2010-01-25T22:22:00.002-05:00

I decided to set it up to see if I could actually check the rake and trail numbers. Above you can see the laser set up to check the vertical line through the center of the axle to the ground. You can barely see the red line in the picture. I've got a T square set up to check the "plumb" of the line.
Close up of the vertical line.
I previously set the laser to follow along the centerline of the forks then moved it back to the centerline of the steering head, I confirmed the position by measuring back 27mm (the offset of the clamps) at the axle point. Then I marked the point where it hit the ground (actually a board under the tire to make up for the height of the stand) this is where the rake angle is.
To get the trail number I measured the distance between the two points marked on the board. And to my surprise I got 99mm, which is exactly what was quoted in the geometry figures I have, and what I calculated it would be working with the 27mm clamps.
So, overall, I'm happy I took the time to play around with the laser...Hey, it's no Computrack system, but it was nice to see how the geometry works when making changes. AND I like playing around with this stuff....Yeah, I know, I got way too much time on my hands!!!

A little experiment......

2010-01-25T22:09:00.001-05:00

I decided to come up with a way to check the swingarm angle using a laser level that I had, but never used. I set the laser on a tripod, leveled it, then set the laser at the center of the swingarm pivot hole. Since I don't have the swingarm yet, because I'm waiting for a used 05 boxed arm, I set up a piece of plywood to follow the line back from the pivot point. I found it interesting that the swingarm pivot is in direct line with the crankshaft center. Follow the red line in the pic above.

The laser level worked surprisingly well.

2010-01-25T21:55:00.001-05:00

While I had the front end apart I made some adjustments to the fairing stay so that the dash sat higher and angled back more, leaving more room for the throttle cables to run underneath.
It's easy to get front ride height measurements with the wheel off and the suspension fully suspended.

I ran a tie across the axle hole to locate the center and measured up to the top of the top triple clamp. For now I'm using some ride height figures that are suppose to work well with the clamps set at the steep (23.5 degree) setting. I set the forks to one line showing or 714mm to the axle center.

GETTING IT BACK TOGETHER......

2010-01-25T21:20:00.001-05:00

The DucShop 27mm off set clamps are mounted up. I originally set the forks at three lines showing above the clamps because this is where they were with the stock clamps.

I ran a wire tie through the holes in the stem nut to mount the Starlane GPS unit. It plugs into the wiring harness and brings up lap times on the dash.

GEOMETRY.....

2010-01-19T11:26:00.002-05:00

Now that I'm finished with the engine work, it's time to work on getting the "R" to handle like my sweet flicking 748! Since the cast swingarm of the 03 model is scratched (other side in this pic) from a previous get off, and I'll be looking to increase the wheelbase (more on that later, or see my older 27mm triple clamp post), I decided to find a nice 05 "boxed" swingarm to replace it.
While I had it off the bike, I took an accurate center to center reading to determine it's length. It's 483mm to the point where I had my chain adjusted (about the middle of the adjustment point) and 489mm all the way to the back of the adjustment range. I've been told that the 05 arm is about 513mm to the back, so I'll be able to get in the 500mm range with that arm, which is what I need. Stay tuned.
Above is an example of shoddy craftsmanship on a $30K (originally) motorcycle. All the tape on the wiring is cheap friction type that comes apart much too easily when trying to clean the harnesses. Plus, the wires are not completely taped, just wrapped with gaps!!! My other Ducatis were much better in this regard. I'll be fixing this problem with proper tape and technique, for sure!

One more thing on belt tension.....

2010-01-19T11:24:00.002-05:00

Make sure that you check the tension of both belts at TDC compression for each one. Although the manual says nothing about bringing the Vertical cyl. back to TDC to set tension- (I've asked a couple of people about this and got a couple of different answers)- I decided, after getting a different reading by checking both belts with just the H.cyl @ TDC, to tension the V. belt at TDC also. I figured if it's good enough for the older superbikes it'll work here! New belts.
I had a small oil leak on the left (chain) side Vert. head rocker shaft cover. Above are the 5
O-rings that seal the oil in around the rocker shafts. My leak seemed to be coming from the upper right (orange) ring.
Here's the new one's greased up (so they stay in place) and installed.
All buttoned up. There's just enough room to get the cover off with the engine in the frame. The coolant elbow has to be removed first (there's an O ring in there too).
Another shot of all the marks that end up being on the cam wheels...it's good to know what's going on in the future....a Sharpie marker is your friend!!!

Cam Timing cont.

2010-01-19T11:21:00.002-05:00

After making timing adjustments I marked the cam wheels for future reference. Note above-Intake @ 108 and Exhaust@ 107 and arrows showing which way the "cam" was turned. Notice the black line on the wheel of the intake side. This was in line with the notch on the nut before adjusting and now it is moved CW slightly. I made these marks as examples of what's taking place with the position of the parts involved before and after cam timing adjustments.
This pic above shows the position of the cam lobes when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. This is the cam position used for checking the belt tension.
Since I don't have the mechanical tensioning tool (I guess it's no longer in production) I decided to try my own "harmonic tensioning" system. Above- Korg tuner.

The manual states to "tune" the belts to 110Hz or an "A".....well, after a lot of trial and error I was able to get both belts tensioned to 110Hz. I then checked their tension the "old" way by twisting the belt between the rollers to see if it twisted 45 degrees and the "between the cam wheels" push test to get about 4mm flex! Both these tests proved that the tuning method worked out. Would I take the time to "harmonic" tension them next time?....maybe, we'll see. Note: I included the chart with the notes and Hz above to show the tight reading of 140Hz that should be used when checking cam timing.
The tuner and a rubber coated rod that I tried to use to tap the belts, but I found that just flicking them with my finger worked best. Another note: make sure it's really quite in the shop or you'll never get a true reading. AND have the tuner's mic postioned down near the layshaft pulley where the shop manual shows the Matheis tester being used.

Cam Timing DONE!

2010-01-16T20:35:00.002-05:00

Got 'em set to 107-107.
Well the Hor. Exh. ended up at 108.5...but that's close enough!!

VERTICAL CYLINDER

2010-01-16T20:17:00.002-05:00

CAbove: My custom pointer set up on the exhaust closer.

I found that a adjustable spanner wrench fits into the holes in the closing cams and can be used to hold the cams while loosening and tightening the cam wheel bolts. I also used it to rotate the cams while making adjustments. Also note the T30 torque bit on the ratchet for the cam wheel attachment bolts. The feeler gauge takes up the slack of the opening clearance.Above-TDC gauge.
Above-
Degree wheel and pointer.

2010-01-16T20:10:00.001-05:00

Well, it worked fine once I made some modifications to the end.

I'm CRAZY.........

2010-01-15T17:22:00.001-05:00

and sick of trying to get the pointer of the dial indicator to sit nicely on the top of the closing shim....so, I made this thing. Hope it works...won't know until tomorrow!!!

VERTICAL CYLINDER CAM TIMING

2010-01-15T14:43:00.001-05:00

I've made other marks (white) on the V cam wheels to show where they are in relationship to the top of the cylinder when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
BTW- this position is about 270 degrees of crankshaft rotation from the point where the H cyl. was at TDC. Also take note of the "T" slots in the end of the camshafts, this is also a good refernce for cam position (about 12 o'clock)

Here's the layshaft position, note the yellow mark (TDC on H cyl). I later made a white dot on the wheel at the crankcase reference line, so WHITE for "V" cyl, YELLOW for "H" cyl. (paint sticks are nice for this)

Remember that the belts have to be really tight with almost no tension in them to check the cam timing as the slack will throw the readings off. If you're using the Harmonic Tensioning technique I was told they should be tightened to about 140 Hz. I've played around with this technique and will post more info here later, but for now, I just put them really tight.

This picture shows the homemade tool I use the find piston TDC. I've used it for years with all my Ducatis and it works well. The dial gauge sits on the top.

Horizontal Cylinder cam timing check.

2010-01-15T14:38:00.001-05:00

I made a spreadsheet to keep track of my readings. You can see by the numbers on the bottom (Horizontal Cylinder) that the exh. cam was right on, but I had to advance the intake cam 4 degrees (2 degrees at the camshaft) to get 107.
The degree of crankshaft rotation is checked at 1mm. of lift or .040" on the dial gauge.

It's tricky, but possible, to get the pointer right on the top of the closing shim. After much experimenting and talking to others who have attempted this, I've found that it's best to rotate the crank forward (CCW) until the valve opens to .040". Record the reading on the degree wheel as valve opens. Then back it up (against rotation- CW) until the needle goes back to "0" (TDC on the degree wheel). Continue against rotation until the cam goes all the way around and then moves the needle on the dial gauge back to .040". This is the point where the valve is 1mm. before fully closed. Record this on the sheet as "valve closes".

A couple of notes: 1. Make sure the needle stops right at "O" when coming back from the "valve opens" point! If it's off a little--something moved or it jump slightly on the shim---start over!!

2. I found it's best when backing the crankshaft up (CW) to go past the "valve close" point a few degrees then come back to it with a correct engine rotation.

This shows a reading of 17 degrees ATDC on the degree wheel. (H. exh. closing)

2010-01-11T15:04:00.001-05:00

Here's the cheap cam wheel holding tool I got from Ebay. It does work to hold the cam wheels from turning while installing the belts.

2010-01-11T15:03:00.001-05:00

Had to run out the other night to find a 26mm offset box wrench. All Sears had was this massive straight job that didn't fit (BTW- it's used to adjust the belt tensioner roller)....so after a little work on the bench grinder....

The dial gauge with it's pointer extension.

Testastretta means "narrow head", and though it makes checking and adjusting the valves a lot easier than the older "4 valvers", it's a lot tighter getting the pointer in position for cam timing!!

I used the radiator support pin on the frame to clamp the flexible arm of the dial indicator to. This tool is made to check brake drum runout on cars and trucks, but has served me well (price is right too) for this type of work.

Another thing I did after trying to see into the Horizontal head while sitting on the work stand was to raise the front of the bike up a couple of feet and add two more 2X6 supports. This was I don't have to bend over as far and it stops all the oil that constantly runs out of the head onto the oil cooler.

2010-01-11T14:59:00.001-05:00

I had to fab a custom bent rod for the dial indicator. It took a lot of trial and error to get it right, the trick is to have the end sit on the top of the closer shim and follow the shim through the complete movement of the valve without hitting the cam of popping off the shim!!! Next to the rod is a picture of the neat Ducati tool shown in the repair manual....it would be nice to have one of these....but I can just image the price!!

Above the degree wheel set at TDC Compression, Horizontal Cylinder.

(Right) fuzzy pic of the rod sitting on the Intake opener Right side.

Above and Right: Cam timing worksheet that I made to keep track of everything. I also compared the readings the Brad Black's MotoOne worksheet!

Inspection time for the "R"

2010-01-07T20:47:00.001-05:00

It's really nice to work on a bike that is mostly disassembled; so easy to get at the valve train.

Valve covers off and oil and gasket sealant cleaned for the surfaces. Loving the Testa head for accesibilty!!

When the layshaft is aligned with the mark on the crankcase and the "T" slots in the end of the Vertical cams are at the 5 o'clock position like above. Mark the wheels (yellow above) where they line up with the top of the head surface. Forget all the factory marks (red), they're useless!! The pic baove shows a cheap (Ebay) cam wheel holding to I decided to play with....it was a tight fit!!

The "T" marks on the H cyl. will be in the "3" o'clock position (pic above) that's where I mark the wheels (yellow) with the head surface.

Lay shaft at TDC Compression- H. cyl.

2010-01-07T20:26:00.001-05:00

I marked the cam wheels and belts to indicate their locations on reassembly, although I think I'm going with new belts.

Here's the crank turning tool and degree wheel with pointer. Cam timing to come later.

Just a nice closeup shot of the closing rocker arm and cam. This is the position of the parts when checking the closing clearance. Unlike the pre-Testa valve train it's actually a lot easier to check the clearances at the rocker/cam interface.

Playing around with my homemade TDC gauge, that will be used late for cam timing.

I clamped the flexible arm to the right side radiator support pin.

2010-01-07T20:21:00.001-05:00

The cams are out and I get a good look at all the rockers for wear. This is the Horizontal cylinder. The markings on my wood supports below are the valve clearance readings of the opening shims. It's easy to keep track of everything when you can just write all over the place!!

All the opening clearances were on the tight side .002"- .005". This picture (right) shows the rocker with the most wear (.002" clearance), it's the H. E. right valve. There's no flaking here though.

Here's how I lay everything out so it all goes back in the correct places.

I decided to loosen up a couple of clearances of the H cyl. head. I was able to swap two shims here.

The 748 is OUT and the 999R is IN!

2009-12-23T15:40:00.000-05:00

The "R" is partially disassembled for some mods and updating.

In an effort to help it turn-in quicker and finish the corner better (like the 748), I've decided to go with the recommended 27mm off set triple clamps. I got a slightly "used" set of DucShop clamps. (thanks Art from Speedzilla)

Here they are on the left compared to the stock set. I got them with the stem already pressed on and the bearing (which save me some work)

Nicely machined piece. Even though they weigh a little more than a pound more than the stocker the extra strength should make up for it.

Chunky, no?

1998 DUCATI 748

2009-11-19T11:19:00.001-05:00

COMPLETE REBUILD

748 Rebuild Complete!!!

2009-11-19T11:15:00.001-05:00

It's finally done (just gotta throw a screen on it)...

More stuff for sale!!! Tricklidz@yahoo.com

2009-11-11T21:52:00.001-05:00

*stock clutch and brake res. caps- some corrosion. *2 pr. stock grips-like new. *stock clutch slave cylinder..no leaks. *drilled out (backside only) and painted clutch cover, small scratches. *stock front brake pads, less than half worn. *stock battery cables *race style ignition switch with bracket (homemade) works great. *stock front brake hoses (for a ST2, I think). *another aftermarket grips (Renthall?) never used. *2 used fuel pump "O" rings, used, still fine. *Master fuse bracket. *Relay. MAKE DECENT OFFERS ON ANYTHING ABOVE...COMBINE ITEMS TO SAVE ON SHIPPING,,,,,I SHIP USPS, EXACT COST ONLY!!! THE LVERS ARE SOLD!!!

Various Ducati Parts

2009-11-10T19:45:00.001-05:00

Tool tray.

Steel clutch basket (slight grooves)

Stock, rubber front hoses.

Stock footpegs and guards.

Carbon heat shield.

Plate holder and reflectors.

messed up throttle tube and grip.

Make an offer!!!

Hyperpro suspension kit.

Everything needed for spring rebuild. Front progressive springs, rear spring, oil and instructions.

Never used. $85

999 FENDER VS 748 FENDER

2009-11-10T11:52:00.000-05:00

Here's some pictures comparing the two. The 999 fender is from Ohlins forks and attaches in front and back of the fork.

The 748 fender attaches to the front, vertically to the Showa fork.

PARTS FOR SALE--

2009-11-03T14:43:00.001-05:00

OEM pipes for 748--Perfect condition-- $75