more pictures

Above left-I made this piece of hardwood to hold the rockers out of the way. Right-A nice bright light and forceps to hold the valves from dropping.


Left-Only loosen this nut holding the adjustable roller a much as necassary when making adjustments because there's a washer behind it that will move out of place and then the belt alignment will be off. Right-I mark the direction of the belt when reusing them.

CAM TIMING

I thought I'd share this info about cam timing that was in Cycle World magazine, it's from the "guru", Kevin Cameron. Notice that the most important valve timing event is the intake closing point. Also the really small "valve overlap" of only 11 degrees for the new Diavel (and the Multistrada, I believe) for low end grunt.

I hope you find it informative.

One more thing on belt tension.....

Make sure that you check the tension of both belts at TDC compression for each one. Although the manual says nothing about bringing the Vertical cyl. back to TDC to set tension- (I've asked a couple of people about this and got a couple of different answers)- I decided, after getting a different reading by checking both belts with just the H.cyl @ TDC, to tension the V. belt at TDC also. I figured if it's good enough for the older superbikes it'll work here! New belts.
I had a small oil leak on the left (chain) side Vert. head rocker shaft cover. Above are the 5
O-rings that seal the oil in around the rocker shafts. My leak seemed to be coming from the upper right (orange) ring.
Here's the new one's greased up (so they stay in place) and installed.
All buttoned up. There's just enough room to get the cover off with the engine in the frame. The coolant elbow has to be removed first (there's an O ring in there too).
Another shot of all the marks that end up being on the cam wheels...it's good to know what's going on in the future....a Sharpie marker is your friend!!!

Inspection time for the "R"

It's really nice to work on a bike that is mostly disassembled; so easy to get at the valve train.

Valve covers off and oil and gasket sealant cleaned for the surfaces. Loving the Testa head for accesibilty!!

When the layshaft is aligned with the mark on the crankcase and the "T" slots in the end of the Vertical cams are at the 5 o'clock position like above. Mark the wheels (yellow above) where they line up with the top of the head surface. Forget all the factory marks (red), they're useless!! The pic baove shows a cheap (Ebay) cam wheel holding to I decided to play with....it was a tight fit!!

The "T" marks on the H cyl. will be in the "3" o'clock position (pic above) that's where I mark the wheels (yellow) with the head surface.

Lay shaft at TDC Compression- H. cyl.

The cams are out and I get a good look at all the rockers for wear. This is the Horizontal cylinder. The markings on my wood supports below are the valve clearance readings of the opening shims. It's easy to keep track of everything when you can just write all over the place!!

All the opening clearances were on the tight side .002"- .005". This picture (right) shows the rocker with the most wear (.002" clearance), it's the H. E. right valve. There's no flaking here though.

Here's how I lay everything out so it all goes back in the correct places.

I decided to loosen up a couple of clearances of the H cyl. head. I was able to swap two shims here.

RANDOM NOTES

Here’s my universal opening shim

Tool and digital micrometer.
The 1mm feeler gauge attached to a block of wood makes life easier.

All valves are removed and cleaned along with piston crown and combustion chamber.

I find it easier to check valves with heads removed.