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Here you'll find some info on Ducati repair and modifications along with photos. I've got stuff for sale too, so check out the older posts. Please leave comments about anything you see, good or bad. Thanks for looking, Steve

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Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Techtronics Quickshifter for the 999

I mounted the shift lights on an aluminum bracket I made and riveted it to the bottom of the fairing stay. The lights are nice and high and should be in my line of sight while tucked in down the straightaways. Fuzzy picture of the bracket. Another reason I collect any scrap aluminum I see around...this piece was perfect for fabbing the support for the control unit. The unit is velcroed to the bracket. Mounted right side at the air runner. Top front of the bike is complete. I'll be swapping out the 19X18 Brembo clutch master for a new 16X18mm and new slave cylinder after I realized how stiff the clutch pull was!! Oh well, live and learn...now I'll have a backup. I got a great deal on a used Techtronics Quickshifter system that was designed for the 999. The system includes a race style (GP shift) straight shift lever with a built in pressure sensor, control unit with digital readout to adjust all the paremeters, three row LED shift light and OFF switch.
Back side of lever with pressure sensor.
Very nice looking piece.





While I'm on the subject of wiring.....this is the tape that I used to wrap all the wiring work I've done on the R over the lst few years.

It prevents this...(see below)!!



More random info.....

Along with the super-light Shorai battery, I made some heavier gauge cables.



The standard cables were about 6.5mm in diameter, whereas the new ones are 9.5mm which means less amperage loss on start up. It's an excellent mod that I've done to all my Ducatis. Above left- note the small size of the battery- it comes with the high density foam to fill the battery box.

A little tip: those little nuts behind the terminals are always a pain keeping them in place when trying to get the screws started!!! I folded a small piece of heat shrink tubing and slid it behind the nut to keep it from floating while I start the screw.

Slipper Clutch.....

Hey what's a slipper clutch and how does it work? A question I asked myself may times as I read about track day riders extolling the joys of the "slipper"... Well, I decided to bite the bullet and spring for one during this winter's tear down. After a lot of research and call's to different suppliers, I decided on the Motowheels "drop in" slipper clutch. There's the beauty above in all it's anodized redness!! OK then, let's see the inner workings of the thing...


Above and below is a closeup shot of a ball bearing sitting in grease on the "ramp" of the clutch hub. The ramps in this particular slipper are 45 degrees which I'm told supply a quicker release of the plates for track use. This assembly is what basically seperates a "slipper" clutch from a standard unit.
This inner part of the clutch hub on the left with the ramps and balls. The part on the right (also with ramps) is shown upside down and fits over the left part, forming the clutch hub. This assembly takes the place of the stock hub. Note the spider spring under the nut, this tensions the inner hub as it pulls away from the outer hub when back torque from the rear wheel is applied. Notice also that I reused my original steel basket which was only slightly worn. That's the reason this is a "drop in" unit, as you're required to reuse the basket and springs, although it comes with spring retainers, bolts, and a new clutch pack with aluminum friction plates. Motowheels will also give you a deal on a basket when buying their slipper.


Above- my homemade tool holding the hub and basket from turing as I torque the nut to the specified reading.


Left- the finished product asssembled with the stock springs and basket.

Rotors

Brake rotor 2003 999R on left. Right-rotor 999S.
Note the relieved edge on the R rotor. I have no idea why it's there. They weight the same.