Cam Timing DONE!

Got 'em set to 107-107.
Well the Hor. Exh. ended up at 108.5...but that's close enough!!

VERTICAL CYLINDER

CAbove: My custom pointer set up on the exhaust closer.

I found that a adjustable spanner wrench fits into the holes in the closing cams and can be used to hold the cams while loosening and tightening the cam wheel bolts. I also used it to rotate the cams while making adjustments. Also note the T30 torque bit on the ratchet for the cam wheel attachment bolts. The feeler gauge takes up the slack of the opening clearance.Above-TDC gauge.
Above-
Degree wheel and pointer.

Well, it worked fine once I made some modifications to the end.

I'm CRAZY.........

and sick of trying to get the pointer of the dial indicator to sit nicely on the top of the closing shim....so, I made this thing. Hope it works...won't know until tomorrow!!!

VERTICAL CYLINDER CAM TIMING

I've made other marks (white) on the V cam wheels to show where they are in relationship to the top of the cylinder when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
BTW- this position is about 270 degrees of crankshaft rotation from the point where the H cyl. was at TDC. Also take note of the "T" slots in the end of the camshafts, this is also a good refernce for cam position (about 12 o'clock)

Here's the layshaft position, note the yellow mark (TDC on H cyl). I later made a white dot on the wheel at the crankcase reference line, so WHITE for "V" cyl, YELLOW for "H" cyl. (paint sticks are nice for this)

Remember that the belts have to be really tight with almost no tension in them to check the cam timing as the slack will throw the readings off. If you're using the Harmonic Tensioning technique I was told they should be tightened to about 140 Hz. I've played around with this technique and will post more info here later, but for now, I just put them really tight.

This picture shows the homemade tool I use the find piston TDC. I've used it for years with all my Ducatis and it works well. The dial gauge sits on the top.

Horizontal Cylinder cam timing check.

I made a spreadsheet to keep track of my readings. You can see by the numbers on the bottom (Horizontal Cylinder) that the exh. cam was right on, but I had to advance the intake cam 4 degrees (2 degrees at the camshaft) to get 107.
The degree of crankshaft rotation is checked at 1mm. of lift or .040" on the dial gauge.

It's tricky, but possible, to get the pointer right on the top of the closing shim. After much experimenting and talking to others who have attempted this, I've found that it's best to rotate the crank forward (CCW) until the valve opens to .040". Record the reading on the degree wheel as valve opens. Then back it up (against rotation- CW) until the needle goes back to "0" (TDC on the degree wheel). Continue against rotation until the cam goes all the way around and then moves the needle on the dial gauge back to .040". This is the point where the valve is 1mm. before fully closed. Record this on the sheet as "valve closes".

A couple of notes: 1. Make sure the needle stops right at "O" when coming back from the "valve opens" point! If it's off a little--something moved or it jump slightly on the shim---start over!!

2. I found it's best when backing the crankshaft up (CW) to go past the "valve close" point a few degrees then come back to it with a correct engine rotation.

This shows a reading of 17 degrees ATDC on the degree wheel. (H. exh. closing)

Here's the cheap cam wheel holding tool I got from Ebay. It does work to hold the cam wheels from turning while installing the belts.