I think I may be wired up wrong, but let me explain.
Today I find myself at Sears looking at the latest Dremel tool attachments during my free time because, I find it necessary to get every bit of rust off the clutch springs in my Ducati, hence the quest for the best tools for the job. And if I find any bolt to be slightly corroded I'm off to the hardware store to get a stainless replacement that I clamp into the vise and drill out for safety wire.
I'm just not right!
I sometimes justify this abnormal behavior with the belief that while I have the parts in my hands while cleaning them, I'll run every coil of the clutch springs through my fingers, inspecting for cracks and wear. While I'm cleaning every link of the drive chain, for instance, I'm also taking a good look at it's wear. Detailing your motorcycle might turn up a missing fairing screw or a loose mirror attachment, (noticed how I brought YOU into the picture- gotta feel I'm not alone in my obsession!) Okay, but taking the time and effort to coat each bolt head with clear lacquer before reinstalling. Really? Yeah, I may have a problem....
I wonder if there is support group for someone like me?
Me: "Hello, my name is Steve and I have a detail problem".
Group:"Hello Steve".




LEFT: Dremel's awesome 120 grit, quick-release buffing wheel attachment.

Contour camera using Go-Pro mounts

The Contour camera uses mounts that slide onto the side in the two slots, and while these work fine they don't have the adjustability of the GoPro mounts which work on pivoting arms.
After many hours searching the Internet for suitable mounts I decided to dig out the old stuff that I had for my old GoPro camera I threw away (it was a PITA to use and had taken enough abuse before finally quitting)
Below: A few GoPro pieces and the Contour.
Before I began I purchased Contour's universal mount. This mount slides on the rails and makes use of a one quarter by 20 threaded insert on the bottom. ABOVE- you'll see the mount on the camera along with the few GoPro attachments I'll make to fit. I had to purchase the stainless steel bolt, two white nylon spacers (1/8" thick with a 1/4" ID) and the small black rubber washer. The black piece just to the left of the white spacers is the most important piece of this modification- this is the piece that normally attaches the GoPro case to the arms or bases.
BELOW- are the instructions to make this piece fit the threaded insert in the bottom of the camera.

Above is the arm in the vise so that I can remove the raise insert that normally holds the acorn nut for the through bolt that tightens the arms. Above right- is the arm in the vise being drilled out with a 1/4 inch bit.
The finished piece. (LEFT) The bottom has been ground flat, it's been drilled out and the white spacers are inserted, it's now a solid piece that will be attached to the threaded 1/4" X 20 hole in the bottom of the Universal mount. This allows the use of all the GoPro attachments.
Bottom: Here's the modified GoPro piece mounted to the camera. Later I decided to replace the allen head bolt with a button head allowing more clearance.

Left: the piece before the raised section (right side) was ground off- the spacers inserted along with the rubber washer that goes between the camera and arm.

The 1/4" X 20 bolt that goes through the bracket into the Universal mount has to be .947" from the bottom of the head to the end of the threads. The only stainless button head bolt I could find was a 1" which is .983" from the bottom, so I cut .036" off the threads. (See the picture right above for the specs)
Below left: The GoPro uses mounts that use stick-on curved or flat bases. The arms then slide and lock into these. Below left: a curved base on the right side of the front fairing.
Using a combination of short and/or longer arms the camera can be set in unlimited positions. Rotated, tilted, angled, forward or backward and locked tight with thumb screws.

I stuck the base on the top of the fairing close to fairing support, figuring this is the sturdiest place on the fairing. I can buy more bases and stick them anywhere on the bodywork or my helmet. I can't attest to the performance or video quality of the camera mounted here because I won't be able to test it until I get back on the track in the Spring, but it's as sturdy as the GoPro was when mounted on the fairing and it's quality was fine.

This modification also allows the use of GoPro's suction cup windshield/tank mount which is actually a quality Panavise unit. I've checked out Contour's suction mount and it didn't look as nice as this one.



So, with a minor modification of a small part, all of GoPro's excellent mounts can be used with the Contour.

I also decided to shorten the vertical mounting arm I made to attach the Contour to the right side of the subframe. Note: click on my other blog listed on the right of this page for info on that mount.



While I was at it I also added another rivet to the baseplate from the GoPro that I had mounted to a aluminum plate that mounts under the muffler, facing rearward.
The rivet heads need to be ground down slightly so that the arms slide in. The bottom of the aluminum plate needed a little "Dremel machining".

The camera mounted up under the exhaust...I'll be adding safety wire lanyards before taking it out on the track. BTW: the lanyards that come with the cameras don't seem to be very sturdy and I'll be making better ones.
Right: another useful purpose of the camera mount in the rear- makes a great attachment point for checking rear suspension sag!!


I even found a used padded vinyl bag I had laying around that the camera and all the mounts fit in nicely. A little double faced tape and the label from one of the Contour boxes stuck to the top of the bag. NICE!


Oh yeah......sometimes I'm kidded about be somewhat "anal retentive" (actually, not somewhat...)......anyway, below I've added a picture of my toolbox.

You think?

Little more carbon.....

Here's the quickly made aluminum plate that I used last year to mount the Techtronics Quickshifter brain to the frame on the right side of the bike.

I had a little 2mm carbon fiber sheet left from my 748 dash so I decided to make a better item.

I had to change the design slightly (it still works fine) because I had very little sheet left.

Even though the plate is thicker and stronger than the aluminum, which was flexible, it weighs the same 15 grams.

Any excuse to use CarbonFiber and I'm all over it!!

Held on there with some Heavyduty Velcro.

Custom screen for under the tail...

Never liked the way I could see the business under the tail from the rear....(yeah, I know, I've got to much time on my hands....)

Anyway, came up with this cheap screen setup that I bent, sprayed flat black and mounted to the tail support. The support is a light piece of aluminum strip that Velcros to the underside of the tail, because I don't like to have holes in the tailpiece.

Looking from the front. I'll post a pic with the tailsection installed later....

Cleaning up some safety wiring.....

Before: clips and safety wiring on the caliper mounting bolts.
I didn't like the way it looked.
Assorted clips from Kurvey Girl.

After: Polished bolts, more holes, new clips, tight wire. I tried .025" wire then decided to go with .32" wire and cover it with clear plastic hose.

Random safety wire drilling stuff....

I decided to clean up and drill a few more holes for the safety wire clips in the front caliper mounting bolts. The bolt laying on the vise to the right is the slightly corroded bolt and the left one has been polished.
This cut off wheel for the Dremel tool shows the quick release style hole for the new style arbor. I found this setup makes changing out the wheels a heck of a lot quicker.
Once I polished the heads of the bolts I hit them with a little clear laquer in an effort to keep them from corroding again.
If you're going to attempt bolt drilling for safety wire, stock up on 1/16" hardened drill bits.
I drilled the heads out on every flat of the socket head making it easier to position the clips where they would line up properly. That neat Park Tool makes it easy to hold different diameter bolts in the vise. Handy.
A small adjustable angled vise makes it easy to hold bolts firmly on the drill press. Don't forget the oil for cooling the drill bit.
Gotta have a drill press.
The Dremel (Sears actually) tool with the polishing quick-release wheel.