http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1738290019

My Facebook profile

WELCOME TO MY BLOG

Here you'll find some info on Ducati repair and modifications along with photos. I've got stuff for sale too, so check out the older posts. Please leave comments about anything you see, good or bad. Thanks for looking, Steve

Search This Blog

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

BMW R1200RT SHOCK REPLACEMENT GUIDE (part 1)

Step by step instructions with pictures of replacement of stock ESA shocks with Ohlins

Authors

  • I began by setting up under my shade tree.
Next start removing all the body panels and put the torx head screws in a container. Take your time because there's a lot of screws and there's three different lenghts and two different diameters!! The driver is a T25 and I also used a T25 1/4 drive with a stubby drive for the tight ones.

It's a good idea to label or have individual containers for the different screws if your worried about where they go...I just threw them all together in a plastic containter (photo top).
They'll be a lot of body panels to remove (photo below). Good time to clean them up while they're off and remove the dirt, leaves a acorns from the recesses of the machine.

Here's a photo of the Ohlins shocks I'm installing...
Quality pieces, more like works of art!
  
Here's the part numbers. REAR-BM 504   FRONT- BM 503
Starting with the rear shock. First put the bike on it's centerstand on a solid surface. Remove the muffler. I put a couple of pieces of wood under the rear tire for support and to lever the swingarm up later.  Using a T50 socket and extension, remove the bolt from the bottom shock mount on the left side of the bike. Notice the bolt and the blue Loctite on the threads.
Locate the two wire harnesses that run from the shock to the right side frame area (ESA only) and unplug them, making sure to pull the wires from any clips or cable ties along the frame.
Here's what the plug ends look like.
TOP MOUNT- Use a T50 socket on an extension and from the right side of the bike hold the torx head (it's recessed) while removing the nut on the left with a 15mm deep socket or wrench.
Notice the recessed frame on the right side where the head of the bolt goes. This is important to remember when reassembling the shock (don't ask how I know!!)...
Pull the lumber from under the tire to let the swingarm lower and remove the shock from the left side.
INSTALLING OHLINS- Slide the new unit up between the frame and swingarm. Make sure  the preload adjust cable is on the top. Run the cable and Adjuster unit back to the muffler mount and let it hang there for now.
Put BLUE Loctite on the threads of the bottom bolt and install and tighten it. (Now, a note about Torque figures: If you're one who feels that it's imperitive that every nut and bolt on your machine MUST be tightened to the proper torque...then by all means, find the repair manual and get the torque readings and wrench away!! I just tightened everything up by feel----I haven't had a problem yet!)
Slide the lumber back under the tire and while lifting slightly with your foot, locate the upper shock mount in the frame and slide the bolt in (from the RIGHT) while wiggling the tire slightly. Tighten the upper bolt to the proper torque!! (no Loctite needed here). Reinstall the muffler and clamp. Install the preload adjuster on the muffler bracket using the supplied stainless steel allen bolt (it's longer). Note: the instructions says to install the preload bracket between the hanger support and the muffler tab so that's where I put it originally. But when trying to put the saddle bag back on, the knob was hitting the back of the bag and prevented the bag lock from engaging to the frame. I ended up putting the preload bracket inside the frame and muffler mount (closer to the tire) by using an approx. 6mm thick washer and locking nut. YMMV.

No comments: