Had to run out the other night to find a 26mm offset box wrench. All Sears had was this massive straight job that didn't fit (BTW- it's used to adjust the belt tensioner roller)....so after a little work on the bench grinder....

The dial gauge with it's pointer extension.

Testastretta means "narrow head", and though it makes checking and adjusting the valves a lot easier than the older "4 valvers", it's a lot tighter getting the pointer in position for cam timing!!

I used the radiator support pin on the frame to clamp the flexible arm of the dial indicator to. This tool is made to check brake drum runout on cars and trucks, but has served me well (price is right too) for this type of work.

Another thing I did after trying to see into the Horizontal head while sitting on the work stand was to raise the front of the bike up a couple of feet and add two more 2X6 supports. This was I don't have to bend over as far and it stops all the oil that constantly runs out of the head onto the oil cooler.

I had to fab a custom bent rod for the dial indicator. It took a lot of trial and error to get it right, the trick is to have the end sit on the top of the closer shim and follow the shim through the complete movement of the valve without hitting the cam of popping off the shim!!! Next to the rod is a picture of the neat Ducati tool shown in the repair manual....it would be nice to have one of these....but I can just image the price!!

Above the degree wheel set at TDC Compression, Horizontal Cylinder.

(Right) fuzzy pic of the rod sitting on the Intake opener Right side.

Above and Right: Cam timing worksheet that I made to keep track of everything. I also compared the readings the Brad Black's MotoOne worksheet!

Inspection time for the "R"

It's really nice to work on a bike that is mostly disassembled; so easy to get at the valve train.

Valve covers off and oil and gasket sealant cleaned for the surfaces. Loving the Testa head for accesibilty!!

When the layshaft is aligned with the mark on the crankcase and the "T" slots in the end of the Vertical cams are at the 5 o'clock position like above. Mark the wheels (yellow above) where they line up with the top of the head surface. Forget all the factory marks (red), they're useless!! The pic baove shows a cheap (Ebay) cam wheel holding to I decided to play with....it was a tight fit!!

The "T" marks on the H cyl. will be in the "3" o'clock position (pic above) that's where I mark the wheels (yellow) with the head surface.

Lay shaft at TDC Compression- H. cyl.

I marked the cam wheels and belts to indicate their locations on reassembly, although I think I'm going with new belts.

Here's the crank turning tool and degree wheel with pointer. Cam timing to come later.

Just a nice closeup shot of the closing rocker arm and cam. This is the position of the parts when checking the closing clearance. Unlike the pre-Testa valve train it's actually a lot easier to check the clearances at the rocker/cam interface.

Playing around with my homemade TDC gauge, that will be used late for cam timing.

I clamped the flexible arm to the right side radiator support pin.

+

The cams are out and I get a good look at all the rockers for wear. This is the Horizontal cylinder. The markings on my wood supports below are the valve clearance readings of the opening shims. It's easy to keep track of everything when you can just write all over the place!!

All the opening clearances were on the tight side .002"- .005". This picture (right) shows the rocker with the most wear (.002" clearance), it's the H. E. right valve. There's no flaking here though.

Here's how I lay everything out so it all goes back in the correct places.

I decided to loosen up a couple of clearances of the H cyl. head. I was able to swap two shims here.

The 748 is OUT and the 999R is IN!

The "R" is partially disassembled for some mods and updating.

In an effort to help it turn-in quicker and finish the corner better (like the 748), I've decided to go with the recommended 27mm off set triple clamps. I got a slightly "used" set of DucShop clamps. (thanks Art from Speedzilla)

Here they are on the left compared to the stock set. I got them with the stem already pressed on and the bearing (which save me some work)

Nicely machined piece. Even though they weigh a little more than a pound more than the stocker the extra strength should make up for it.

Chunky, no?

1998 DUCATI 748

COMPLETE REBUILD